Tasting Note: Domaine Jean-François Ganevat 2011 “Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues”


1. Introduction:
Trends come and go, and right now there´s certainly a trend towards natural or orange wines, but Jean-François Ganevat never took interest in trends of any kind.
When he returned to his family estate in 1998, after about 10 years in Burgundy working most of that time at Domaine Jean-Marc Morey, J. F. Ganevat slowly started to take over the winemaking from his father. Today, Domaine Ganevat produces distinct, pure and expressive wines on 8,5 hectars (21 acres) of mostly Burgundian and traditional varietals in Rotalier in France´s Jura region.
Following his uncompromising character and depending on the vintage about 35 to sometimes 50 (!) different cuvées are produced.
With a general low-tech approach Ganevat works biodynamically since 2006 and doesn´t use any sulfur dioxide in his reds and hardly any SO2 in his whites. Some call him crazy, but he´s obsessed about site specificity and natural wines using only highest quality grapes, working with lowest yields and a strict grape selection to create special, unfiltered and unfined wines of detail, concentration, minerality and purity.
Furthermore, unlike most producers in the Jura, Ganevat doesn´t produce oxidative wines only. In fact many of his wines are made non-oxidative (reductive).
Today´s wine of 100% Savagnin comes from the marl clay soils of Ganevat’s largest vineyard (4 ha/ 10 acre), which is considered to be the best soil in the Jura for white wines, particularly Savagnin. Some of the vines in this vineyard were planted in 1930.
Our 2011 “Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues” bottle and cork are flawless.
100% Savagnin, 12,5% alc.

2. Appearance:
Bright golden-yellow.

3. Nose:
Remarkable aromatics of Citrus and Apricot.
Freshness (!), Ripe and Bruised Apples. Soft Cheeses and Freshly-cut Herbs (Thyme).
Some oxidative characteristics, little Sweetness and decent Vanilla.
Powerful freshness and intriguing complexity!

4. Taste:
More Citrus and Yellow Fruit on the palate with creamy sweetness (mostly) in the front. Mix of Herbs in a complex package.
Fascinating chalky minerality and fresh acidity dominate on the mid-palate.
Finishes long and powerful, but harmonious with (Citrus) Fruit and Peppery Spiciness.
Young and dynamic, but with richness, complexity and elegance!

5. Opinion:
Dynamic harmony in a paradoxical and fascinating wine.
Freshness and power with precision, finesse and surprise, but no opulence.
If you´re looking for authentic and original wines with individual character, there´s hardly any other producer more exciting than Jean-François Ganevat at the moment!